Since it’s the festive season, why not have back to back Color Up posts! This time round I decided to play with a color I’ve never used on my eyes before, but I find to be extremely flattering on others. So here’s presenting my first time working with green eyeshadow!
I played up the look a bit by popping some glitter, but still allowing the green eyeshadow to be the star of the show. So if you’re interested to know how I got the look, go ahead and continue reading!
The Tools & Colors
For the look I used seven colors from two different eyeshadow palettes – Zoeva Smoky and my much loved Lorac PRO. I too used quite a number of brushes including my standard buffing brushes that are not in the picture above. Since the eye makeup focuses on a popping lid color, I decided to give more definition to my crease than I would usually do, so this is where my petit crease brush (Zoeva 231) and pointed mini blending brush (Morphe M507) come in handy. Since I wanted a deeper shade in the outer V of my eyes, that calls for my petit eye blender brush (Zoeva 223). And of course my staple, my trusted blending brush (MAC 217) and not forgetting the most important brush to pack that color on the lid (Morphe 166). Here, I would like to reiterate that the brushes you use truly depend on your eye shape, lid space etc. I personally use a lot of petite brushes because my eyes are small and hooded, so I don’t have much lid space to work with. Therefore, I prefer using small tapered brushes for targeted placement. If you have bigger eyes with considerable lid space, you do not have to use the petite version. You can just use a normal crease brush, or even possibly a MAC 217 for most of your eye makeup.
Bulk of the shadows I used are from the Zoeva Smoky palette. The colors used are marked above. Relieve The Moon is a matte cream, almost ivory shade that has a warm undertone. It is a very light color that doesn’t really show up on the eyes but is perfect for setting your eye primer or as a brow bone highlight. Sweet Smell is a matte medium-toned caramel brown and a perfect transition color. Dark Edge is a dark olive green with slight yellow undertone and finely milled yellowish shimmer, but translates more as a soft metallic sheen on the eyes. Ashes Awake is a matte cool-toned medium-dark brown with slightly taupe undertones. Real Light is a true matte black.
I used two colors from the Lorac PRO palette, Taupe and Sable. Taupe is a warm-toned, medium-brown with a matte finish while Sable is a warm-toned, medium-dark brown with a matte finish.
By now I think you know the drill. I begin every eyeshadow application by setting the eyeshadow primer with a matte cream shade, in this case I’m applying Relieve The Moon (Zoeva Smoky) all over my eyes with a buffing brush.
And again, another staple in my eye makeup – the transition shade. Here I’m using Sweet Smell (Zoeva Smoky), and with a fluffy buffing brush I apply the shade above my crease all the way across using a rainbow motion. The point of applying this color is so that the deeper colors applied below this color can gradually blend and fade into the transition color, allowing for a gradient of colors rather than a lump of harsh colors.
Customizing my own crease-defining shade, I mixed two taps of a pointed mini blending brush (Morphe M507) on Taupe and one tap on Sable (Lorac PRO). I then placed the color just above the fold of my lids, below the transition color earlier, and flick it upwards in the outer corner to give the eyes a lifted appearance. Being a pointed blending brush, I am able to use the same brush to place the color and blend it too.
To deepen the outer corner and add even more definition to the crease, I applied Ashes Awake (Zoeva Smoky) with my petit crease brush (Zoeva 231) below the previous colors near my crease, and on the outer corner, bringing the color down near my lashline since I want a deep outer V effect.
Picking up a pinch of Sweet Smell (Zoeva Smoky) with my MAC 217, I blended the colors above my lid just to diffuse any harsh lines. You can already see how the colors in the transition area here look much softer and blended compared to the previous photo where that deep brown harsh line is showing.
This step is optional. I wanted that olive green color I’m going to apply to really pop, so I figured the best way is to set a concealer as a base so that the shadow pigmentation will stand out more, just like doing a cut crease. So I covered about two-thirds of my lids with concealer (Make Up For Ever Full Cover Concealer) and a flat concealer brush, making sure to leave the outer third untouched as you want to keep that depth that you have previously built.
Going straight into the lid color, I generously picked up Dark Edge (Zoeva Smoky) with my dense shadow brush (Morphe 166) and packed the color on top of where I’ve applied the concealer. Remember to use dabbing and pressing motion to get the most pigmentation out of the shadows.
Now you want to go back in to the color Ashes Awake (Zoeva Smoky) to redefine the crease area since the green that you previously applied may have disturbed the crease color.
I wasn’t too satisfied with my outer V. I wanted a deeper, more dramatic effect so I decided to add the matte black shade Real Light (Zoeva Smoky) with my petit Zoeva 223 brush and just darkened up my outer V, blending it at the same time into the browns.
With nothing added to my MAC 217, I blended away any harsh edges.
A fierce wing liner later, I used Ashes Awake (Zoeva Smoky) again and my Zoeva 231 to add some depth to my lower lashline.
To make the green shadow pop, I added a generous coating of the Urban Decay Heavy Metal Glitter Eyeliner in the shade Distortion, an iridescent glitter. It’s actually an iridescent mix of glitter, so it flashes greenish-gold, fuchsia, pink and blue. On top of the olive green eyeshadow, the greenish-gold reflex stands out, but you can still see very slight hues of pink and blue. I also applied it to my inner corners as my tear duct highlight.
And here’s the result:
I decided to pair the first look with kind of a peachy nude, so I lined my lips with my Dior Contour Lipliner Pencil in No. 213 (Natural Beige) and for lipstick, went in with my Ciate London Liquid Velvet Moisturizing Matte Liquid Lipstick in the color Swoon, a warm-toned peachy nude.
For the alternative look, I wanted to go bold with a darker lip color. I used Makeup Geek Iconic Lipstick in the shade Rare, a cool-toned light brown with a velvet matte finish. I love how grungy the lip color looked, something that I don’t often wear, but when I do, I’m feeling it.
So that’s both looks. I really enjoyed creating this glitter green eye makeup. It’s not something I’d do on a daily basis of course, but it’s fun sometimes to experiment with the colors you own. Alright, till the next one!